The great composer’s love of nature is well documented; Beethoven’s walks in the countryside surrounding Vienna were woven into his daily routine. The stunning forested hills filled with birdsong brought Beethoven great pleasure, and served as an important part of his creative process. Those solitary walks would, in a sense, allow his ideas to incubate, and flourish into the masterpieces we know and love today!
As for longer breaks, Beethoven retreated to spa towns such as Baden bei Wien (Baden near Vienna), whether in an effort to improve his health, take a restorative break from the city or spend time with friends. Thermal waters, with their rich mineral content, offer a large range of health benefits. Specific mineral compositions can help with joint inflammation, dermatological problems or high blood pressure, to name a few. Beethoven was often prescribed long spa retreats by his doctor, as he was plagued by a digestive disorder and also suffered from joint pain.
The historic spa towns were the choice of the nobility in the time of the Habsburgs. Baden was known as the Spa of Emperors. The buildings were grand and the gardens spectacular.
Baden bei Wien is located 26 km south of Vienna. The area boasts a total of 14 hot springs. It is surrounded by nature, at the foot of an approximately 800 metre high peak named Mount Calvary.
Between 1807 and 1825 Beethoven stayed in the town over a dozen times. Most of the buildings he occupied are still standing today.
For Beethoven these summer breaks never meant a full detachment from work. On the contrary, these were more focused times for composing. Whilst there worked on major pieces such as Missa Solemnis, Apassionata, and the Ninth Symphony.
Teplitz (today known as Teplice) is the second largest spa town in the Czech Republic. It was often called the grand salon or little Paris due to its clientele and rich cultural life. The thermal springs in Teplitz are known since at least the 8th century. According to local legend a swineherd noticed his injured pig recovering by wallowing in the hot mud.
Beethoven spent time there in 1811 and 1812, once following his doctor’s advice and the second time to see friends and meet with his Immortal Beloved, to whom he wrote his famous letter in July.
In the summer of 1812, he and the German writer demigod Johann Wolfgang von Goethe met in the city. The meeting between the two giants of German culture was initiated and organized by a young woman called Bettina von Arnim, who was an admirer of both men.
Beethoven and Goethe spent several days together, taking walks and discussing art and politics.
Another location Beethoven frequented was Mödling (today a city approx. 14 km south of Vienna). The name has Slavic origins and it means slowly running water as the Mödlingbach, a brook which runs from the Vienna Woods, flows through the town.
Beethoven was here briefly in 1799, but between 1818-1821 he stayed there for a part of each summer. He worked on the Diabelli variations there, and Hammerklavier, and wrote the 11 Modling Dances, amongst others.
A.K.
